The electric PAN - ST1300 - my next project.

Glad you opted for the direct connection without the engine for now, especially with your concerns about battery life.

The extra total mass, rotating mass, and frictional losses would affect battery life more than adjusting the windshield.
 
This just blows my socks off. What an incredible amount of work. Keep on truckin'...
 
This is looking like a very interesting project you have going here, I can't wait to see the finished product.
 
you powder coated the frame and you don't have the motor yet? Should you wait till the motor is mounted and see if some brackets need to be removed,modified or replaced?
 
"The drive train and shaft are to stay very much the same. I plan to fill the splined universal coupling as detailed below in the photos, either welding, chemical metal, or brass. this will assist with connection to the Keyway shaft fitted to the electric drive motor I intend to use." the connection to the motor has to have splines to match the shaft, it slides in and out.
 
Al st1100 said:
you powder coated the frame and you don't have the motor yet? Should you wait till the motor is mounted and see if some brackets need to be removed,modified or replaced?
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yes , I powder coated the Frame. There is Cage to be designed ( and powder coated too..) , which fits inside were the ICE engine was. This is currently in the development stage of design. the electric motor I have will be mounted onto the 25mm rear back plate , It will also houses the batteries & junction box, in front on this.

if that makes sense.

regards

tony
 
Al st1100 said:
"The drive train and shaft are to stay very much the same. I plan to fill the splined universal coupling as detailed below in the photos, either welding, chemical metal, or brass. this will assist with connection to the Keyway shaft fitted to the electric drive motor I intend to use." the connection to the motor has to have splines to match the shaft, it slides in and out.
Click to expand...

the electric motor i intend use , As below ... does not have spline but 20mm dia shaft and keyway. I intend to match this internal profile , by some of the options as mentioned above. this should mount direct onto the motor and utilise the existing drive train. ( this is if I can set the motor in the right position without using a further splined spigotited translon piece. ( capable of handing the 130 mn forces on it.)

make sense ?

Tony
 

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Ideally, you can find the other half of the bike's drive-shaft spline, and simply weld that to your motor coupler.
 
technotony007 said:
the electric motor I have will be mounted onto the 25mm rear back plate ,
Click to expand...
By 25mm back plate, you mean thick? As in very close to 1" thick? Does it need to be that heavy a piece of aluminum? Would a thinner back plate flex?
 
SMSW said:
By 25mm back plate, you mean thick? As in very close to 1" thick? Does it need to be that heavy a piece of aluminum? Would a thinner back plate flex?
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Hi ,
metric or imperial , yes it is 1” thick aluminum plate, to which the electric motor is bolted. this will give a strong base to act as a brace the chasiss ,no flex or demotation from electric motor bolted to it. this will be machines to size inside profile whete the engine was once fitted.
 
update i have just purchased 14 nissan leaf batteries , to give me :

approx . 96v , 896 Ah , and 7kw of power.

these will be piggy backed on top of each other and will sit in front of the electric motor , in the front part of the cage.
 
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technotony007 said:
approx . 96v , 896 Ah
Click to expand...

???? That would be over 537kg of batteries! (Assuming they are LiFePO4)

Okay, looked up a Leaf and it uses either NMC or LMO. That's 390kg or 570kg respectively. I'm guessing you are not putting them all in the bike at once. But if you did, get strong tires!!
 
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I would aim for the battery capacity that allows the bike to end up close to stock weight, unless you can up the suspension capacity. Anything else will end up with poor handling and low tire and suspension wear.
 
i'm not trying to be a party pooper but there are so many huge issues needs to be solved in order to make this work so i'm approaching this a little bit skeptical.
 
The correct method to deal with the universal coupling, would be to disassemble the coupling, and replace the half with the splines with one that is machined to fit your motor shaft. Universal couplings are usually designed to mix/match the halves to whatever shaft size that you need.

John
 
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